48 Hours in GVNC: Exploring Culture & Art
By Jesse Locks
The Grass Valley mural by Justin Lovato welcomes visitors to Downtown Grass Valley.
In 2017, when the California Arts Council announced the 14 districts that would serve as California’s inaugural state-designated Cultural Districts, only four were from rural communities, and two of them just so happened to be in Nevada County – Truckee and the combined small towns of Grass Valley and Nevada City.
It was a moment that signified something both locals and frequent visitors already knew about the infamous gold rush towns–the Grass Valley Nevada City (GVNC) Cultural District has a long history of being at the epicenter of arts (all forms visual, literary, media, healing, etc.), culture, and technology in California.
From one of the greatest American poets, Gary Snyder, to progressive journalist Jennie Carter; filmmakers Jonathan Dayton (Little Miss Sunshine) and Adrian Molina (Coco) to professional skateboarders John Cardiel and Chris Senn, snowboarders Tina Basich Haller; and let’s not forget the bevy of musicians (Utah Phillips, Roger Hodgson, Joanna Newsom, Jonathan Richman, and Hunter Burgan), dancers (Lola Montez, Alison Clancy), and artists (Charles Woods and David Osborn, Rose Freymuth-Frazier, and Tahiti Pehrson) are just a few who have called this place home.
Maybe it’s the vibes we feel unconsciously from the granite and gold quartz reverberating all around, or the sounds of the whispering pines, or the sheer number of people making art professionally and for fun–but art doesn’t just grow here, it thrives and flourishes.
From the moment you step out onto Mill Street in the heart of Grass Valley you are surrounded by charming shops, an array of dining options, and public art on every corner.
The iconic spire of the Del Oro Theatre can be seen at various downtown vantage points while stunning large-scale murals tell unique local stories. They include the open “Mine Shaft” at 165 Mill Street by John Pugh, the iconic Grass Valley sign at 101 Mill Street by Justin Lovato, “A New Dawn” at 105 S Church Street painted by Miles Toland, Ursula X Young’s one-of-a-kind take on the famous dancer Lola Montez can be seen at 121 Neal Street, and the Nisenan mural “Solim Ni–I sing” painted by Nikila Badua at 305 Neal Street.
Check out local art and artisans at Artworks Gallery or Make Local Habit. Pick up that impossible to find LP from Clocktower Records or Ron’s Real Records, your next favorite page turning novel at The Bookseller or something more obscure at Booktown Books, cables for your guitar amp or a new guitar at Foggy Mountain Music, or specialty yarn at Heathered Yarn Co.
Sip local and regional wines at Cork 49, New West Wines, or Sierra Starr Winery or a beer at Grass Valley Brewery. Maybe it’s something sweet you are craving. Satisfy your sweet tooth with a French pastry from Cake, hand dipped Lazy Dog Ice Cream or something delicious AND gluten free from Corvus Bakery.
Pick up lunch or a picnic from Backporch Market, Tess’ Kitchen or El Barrio Market before heading over to Empire Mine State Historic Park. Just over one mile away from downtown Grass Valley, Empire Mine is the site of one of the oldest, deepest, and richest gold mines in California. Here you can tour the lush grounds or take a more vigorous hike along its many trails.
Finish up the evening with a hand-crafted, custom-blended cocktail at the Iron Door Saloon at the beautifully renovated historic Holbrooke Hotel. Or enjoy some live music, comedy, dance or theater at the Center for the Arts.
Just four miles away is Nevada City, originally named Nevada (Spanish for “snow-covered”) after a particularly snowy winter in 1850. The word “City” was added in 1864 to relieve confusion with the nearby state of Nevada.
Historic Victorian homes and their heritage gardens line the winding streets here. The town’s main corridor, Broad Street, looks like something from a movie set, perfectly preserved and a reminder of bygone eras. Stop by the Nevada City Chamber of Commerce and pick up a walking tour or a tree map to fully acquaint yourself.
On the weekends the streets come alive with visitors heading downtown for dinner, a movie or to take in some live music or theater.
The historic Nevada Theatre–the oldest continuously operated theater venue on the West Coast–is home to several theater companies including Community Asian Theater of the Sierra (CATS), Sierra Stages, LeGacy Presents, and The Lyric Rose Theatre Company. On Sundays The Onyx Downtown screens classic, repertory and independent films. The theatre recently underwent an extensive interior renovation which includes a stunning, must-see, large-scale, completely original mural spanning the entire auditorium painted by artist Sarah Coleman.
Every Thursday, musicians from near and far gather together to play traditional Celtic music at The National Exchange Hotel bar. The sister hotel to the Holbrooke Hotel in Grass Valley, the National also recently went through an extensive renovation and hosts an array of events including Drag Queen Brunch, karaoke, music and more.
Walking through town, music spills into the streets from live music venues such as Golden Era, The Fern, Chief Crazy Horse, The Headquarters, and The Stone House. Even the local radio station KVMR 89.5 FM has music and interviews airing outside their studios on the corner of Spring and Bridge Streets.
Across the street from KVMR is a hub of arts and culture in Nevada City–the Miners Foundry Cultural Center. Once a foundry that repaired heavy machinery for the mines, the space was reimagined in the late 1960s and 70s as the American Victorian Museum by two San Francisco artists, Charles Woods and David Osborn. The Miners Foundry has since hosted everything from the annual Robert Burns Scottish Celebration to a secret concert by the Red Hot Chili Peppers.
Enjoy a pint from local brewery BrewBilt at their new beer garden Brewhaus or Three Forks Brewery and Bakery. If local art with a glass of local wine is more your style, stop into Nevada City Winery or Szabo Winery where both have monthly exhibitions of local artists.
If you are packing a picnic for a local hike or bike ride along the Pioneer Trail off Highway 20, go to Communal Café, Java Johns, or SPD for all the essentials including tasty sandwiches.
Shopping in Nevada City is more like treasure hunting. Field Day is a local dress shop that sells tailor made clothing from reclaimed and locally-sourced materials. KitKitDizzi stocks local handmade jewelry and home goods. For something entirely original check out artist Holly Dilley’s Crush Gallery with its combination of taxidermy and roller-skating items. Looking for something fun or funny? Novelty shops The Gray Goose or Mountain Pastimes do the trick. And no respectable burner heads to the playa without visiting vintage stores Rainbow Rocket and Solstice.
Just outside downtown Nevada City is the Seven Hills Business District where you will find even more restaurants, retail stores, two bike shops, Elevation 2477' Cannabis Dispensary, one of the best sushi restaurants around–Sushi In the Raw, vintage store Enid and Edgar, and The Onyx Theatre, a jewel box art house movie theatre screening both blockbusters and independent films.
Both Grass Valley and Nevada City are home to vibrant farmers markets, along with a jam-packed calendar of art walks, street fairs, car shows, brewfests, parades, film festivals and more. During the holidays, Grass Valley celebrates its Cornish history with Cornish Christmas, while in Nevada City, Victorian Christmas is a Christmas card come alive with vendors and attendees dressed up in Victorian-attire.